| True wire wheels are constructed like a bicycle
or old motorcycle wheel. The rim is attached to the hub by spokes,
unlike "fake" wire wheels which are simply normal
pressed steel wheels with hub caps that look like spokes. Wire
wheels are typically attached by a single large nut called a
"spinner" or "knock-off". However some wheels
are constructed with a flange to allow the use of lug nuts like
most other wheels.
Any modern tire will fit a wire wheel but one must take care
how it is installed, and know whether or not an inner tube
must be used. Wire wheels can be made tubeless, but it requires
a special process of sealing the inside of the rim where the
spoke holes are. Usually this is done with a durable silicon-based
product and must be applied properly or wheel balance may
suffer. If a spoke is ever replaced, the rim seal will need
to be patched.
The other problem with making tube-type wheels tubeless is
the safety lip on the rim. Most older wheels do not have this
safety lip, which is designed to prevent the tire from rolling
off the rim in a hard corner. I've never actually seen this
happen but it is a potential risk.
Some new wire wheels such as those made by Dayton have safety
lips and come pre-sealed for tubeless tires. However they
do not offer tubeless / safety lip on 5" and under rim
widths.
By running tubeless you will drop a couple pounds off each
wheel and eliminate the friction between tire and tube. However
despite this slight performance gain I personally prefer to
stay with tubes. This eliminates the possibility of a leak
in the rim seal which cannot be repaired at a normal tire
shop.
When running with tubes, you can of course use the spare
wheel if you get a flat. But if you get two punctures out
on the road then you may have a hard time finding a replacement
tube locally. This is why I suggest buying one extra inner
tube to throw in the trunk. It's cheap insurance since they
only cost around $12 each.
Even if you have tubeless wire wheels, it is a good idea
to have an inner tube handy. If you puncture a tubeless tire
out on the road and the tire shop damages the silicon seal
around the spoke holes, then you will be able to use the spare
inner tube to get on your way.
When buying inner tubes, be sure to get them specifically
designed for radial tires. If you get regular tubes, they
will become chaffed by the rough interior of the tire and
you will risk flatting. When replacing tubes and tires, don't
forget to inspect the rim liners and replace them if old,
cracked or dry.
NEVER use an oversized inner tube in your tires. If you do,
there is a good chance of a "pinch flat" or friction
puncture. Slightly undersized tubes are fine. When installing
tubes, it is good practice to rub a bit of talcum powder on
them to reduce friction.
When you have tires mounted, be ABSOLUTELY SURE that the
tire shop has the proper equipment for mounting tires on wire
wheels. If they put wire wheels on a regular machine, they
can tear the spokes right out of the thing! The mounting machine
must grip the rim, not the spokes.
The same goes for balancing. A regular balancing machine
will not work properly since they are made for grabbing wheels
with bolt holes. With the exception of special bolt-on models,
wire wheels have a single large hole in the middle that will
never mount perfectly centered on a standard machine. Look
for an old-school tire shop. They will know what to do.
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