It was a hot but beautiful day in the valley and I found myself
yearning for a drive. Knowing I needed $1.50 worth of parts for
the TC, I felt it most logical to drive 85 miles to Moss Motors
to pick them up rather than pay for a postage stamp. So, at around
1:15 PM I fired up Cedric, my MGB GT, and headed north along highway
101 toward Goleta. It was such a nice day that I decided to see
how much of the drive could be done on back roads along the coast.
Going through Camarillo I exited the freeway and took some roads
through coastal farmland. My senses were battered for the next 15
miles by the smell of manure, with a noxious mystery chemical plant
thrown in for fun. It concerned me that there were no signs or marking
of any kind on the plant. Hmmm...
Winding my way through Oxnard and Ventura I realized this was going
to be a long drive since I was being held up by traffic on these
small roads, and the towns were even slower. No worries, I had all
day to get there and home. Good thing, because I had no idea what
I was in for.
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Eventually I ran out of side roads somewhere north
of Ventura so I got back on the 101 and drove the last 35 miles
in top gear. Arriving at Moss Motors I fell victim to my impulse
buying and spent $190. I blame Moss for putting that rack of
catalogs in the lobby. At least I got a free knockoff hammer
out of their promotion for spending so much money. I spoke for
a while with a gentleman who pulled up in a blue MGA, then grabbed
some lunch |
nearby before heading home.
Back on the road I got the bright idea to take back roads again.
After all it was only 4:00 at the latest and I had all day. I made
a left onto highway 154 toward San Marcos Pass which is a road I
have always wanted to drive. Cedric was struggling a bit with the
heat and the long grade, and I was disheartened when an SUV passed
me and there was nothing I could do about it. Suddenly I saw a tiny
road climbing steeply upward, and almost instinctively I turned
onto it. I recognized the road name from a web site devoted to great
driving roads in California, and I immediately discovered that this
road truly was great! It was narrow, twisty and lightly traveled...
exactly the kind of road I like!
Many of the turns were extremely tight, requiring first gear and
a lot of gas. The road climbed at an astonishing rate and I was
having so much fun that I failed to watch the temperature gauge
like usual. Eventually I did glance over and noticed it was at 220F!
Uh oh, better back off. Slowing down didn't help since the road
was so steep that the car was always working hard. It climbed to
225 and then 230... yikes!!! I pulled off at a rare shady spot and
let the car cool for a few minutes. By the time I found the pullout
my temperature was reading 100-pounds per square inch because the
needle had gone past the end and into the oil pressure area! Thankfully
the previous owner installed a sealed cooling system or I would
have boiled over badly.
| Back on the road I took it a bit easier and the route eventually
became less steep. It was still twisty and at one point in a
switchback turn I encountered the steepest piece of asphalt
I have ever seen. I would have stopped to take a picture but
the car would never have start moving forward again if I did.
I was truly shocked at how steep it was! The road left the views
of the Santa Barbara coastline and entered a heavily wooded
area of oak, |
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aspen and pine. The shade here felt great and I stopped to enjoy it,
listening to the sounds of a stream running alongside the road just
below me.
At the end of this road I was confronted with a decision. Left appeared
to go to civilization and
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right went up higher and deeper into the mountains.
No one was on that road, so the decision was made. Up we went
along this tiny road, avoiding potholes like some kind of minefield.
A sign read Rough Road Next 14 Miles. The tiny pieces
of the road that weren't potholes were actually almost smooth.
Despite the lack of asphalt the views from this road were simply
stunning. At 4,000-feet elevation, I could see all of Santa
Barbara on my right and the |
Santa Ynez Valley area on my left. The road continued along the very
top of these narrow mountains for miles and miles and offered one
amazing sight after another.
The views from the ridge - Left, Ahead and Right.
The potholes continued to worsen to the point that they could easily
swallow an entire wheel.
| This was slow going and I wasn't very happy with the thought
of tearing parts from my car should I drive into one. Finally
I reached a sign which pointed right to Santa Barbara and left
to Hot Springs. I sat for a few minutes deciding how adventurous
I wanted to be with nearly 100 miles still left to drive home
by the shortest route. I followed my rugged side and made the
left, heading higher and deeper yet into the mountains. |
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The scenery continued to offer wonderous views of ridges and valleys
and the road continued in its quest to swallow Cedric whole. This
went on for many miles when suddenly I was faced with the unexpected...
the pavement ended. Another choice, do I continue onto the dirt
road ahead of me or do I turn back? Turning around was not appealing
since it was so much work navigating the mine fields for the past
hour. I figured this road had to come out eventually so I went for
it.
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The route descended into a canyon for many miles.
Road conditions got pretty bad in spots and I was cringing over
the really rough stuff. No problem, I've off-roaded in MGs many
times before, just not in a show-condition car. The downhill
sections were the worst, being rutted and rough. Some sections
got rocky as well and I started to think about turning back.
No, none of that, I'm not backtracking 20 miles to Santa Barbara
through all that I had |
driven... just to be back where I started! So I continued on.
| At one point I saw a large deer run across the path ahead.
He stopped about a hundred feet away and looked back at me.
If I am any judge of deer expressions, I would say he was curious.
He stood there continuing to watch me for a while before wandering
off into the bushes, at which point I continued onward, descending
deeper into the canyons. |
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Finally, some fencing appeared. Aha! Must be getting close to a main
road! Rounding a bend I suddenly stopped in my tracks. There was a
river in the road. I could see a concrete section but the river was
running across it. Driving closer I realized it was very shallow and
slow-
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moving. It was also very beautiful. As I approached
I found myself completely secluded and surrounded by wildlife.
There were ducks, turtles, frogs and birds, and there was me
with my MG. This was truly amazing one of those experiences
you do not forget. There was no one around for who knows how
far and more than likely no one else had been here in some time.
This was really a remote and special place, and I stopped for
some photos. |
I continued on for a short distance and came across a horrifying
sight... a big metal gate across the road! Wait, there's a way to
turn left. But where does it go? Aha, a post with a map stapled
to it! The map was useless since it was much too local to help me
figure out exactly where I was, or where this next road went. I
really, really didn't want to turn back now since it would take
an hour just to climb the dirt roads out of there and I had already
abused poor Cedric enough. He was filthy inside and out and had
driven some pretty rough terrain. No, I'm going to follow this next
road. It looks much smoother.
Continuing on I saw small telephone poles, a good sign! About a
mile later I passed a 4-wheel drive truck on the side of the road.
I may have stopped to ask where the road went but by the time I
realized there was someone inside I was well past, and the guy had
a really strange look on his face. I'm sure he was either wondering
what an old British sports car was doing way out here, or that he
was an axe murderer.
The road continued descending along the Santa Ynez River through
beautiful meadows full of golden grass and yellow flowers, oak trees
dotting the landscape and pines covering the hillsides all around
me. The sky was turning a beautiful orange as it prepared for sunset.
This was truly amazing and I took it all in as I drove along. Wait,
did I say sunset? Holy cow, I need to get out of here sooner rather
than later!
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A sign appeared ahead at a fork in the road and
it had directions! Upon closer inspection I saw that it only
had mileages to places on the road to the right, which according
to the map I found earlier was a dead-end road. The other road,
heading straight, was the only other option but I had no idea
where it would lead. There appeared to be a ranger station just
around the bend (which is where the telephone lines ended) so
I drove to it. |
By the looks of things the ranger station had not been lived in for
some time. On the side I discovered a large area map posted on a sign.
Finally I could get my bearings straight and figure out the best way
to a main road! But the news was grim... the fastest way out, by far,
was to turn back. *gasp, choke* This can't be right! Double-checking...
yep, it's right. I had
| driven straight into the heart of the Santa Ynez Mountains
and the only way out was to climb out of this valley. There
were two ways to do that and one of them was twice as far as
the other, and on roads I had not yet seen. I had a hard time
swallowing the fact that I would have to put Cedric though all
that again, and for nothing. I should never have listened to
my adventurous side. Here I was with one hour to total darkness
and I was in the middle of nowhere on unpaved mountain fire
roads. So I did the only thing I could think |
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of other than suicide, I got in the car and turned around.
Driving back I was making pretty good time since I remembered which
sections were smooth and which were rough. I found that on the smoother
parts driving faster produced a much better ride, and this was a
good thing! I passed the guy in his truck again and he watched me
go by this time with an even stranger look on his face. I passed
the meadows, the telephone poles and eventually crossed the river
again, the whole time cringing at the thought of this all being
for nothing. Climbing the rough sections out of the canyon was much
worse than descending them and Cedric was really getting bounced
around. The headlights came on and things began to look different
in the dim evening light, in addition to being seen from the opposite
direction. I tried to make good time but it just wasn't possible
and a couple big bumps reminded me of that.
I got another fright when two deer darted into the road in front
of me. When they saw me they were so spooked that they leapt nearly
straight up the hill to my left and continued jumping up what was
practically a cliff, eventually disappearing from sight. It was
an incredible thing to see and gave a real impression of how powerful
these animals are. They appeared weightless despite their huge size.
More driving and less light was the name of the game for the next
half hour when suddenly a road appeared. It was the crappy pothole
road! Finally I could get poor Cedric onto a familiar
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surface. The road surface felt wonderful despite
how much I hated it before. Compared to what I was on this felt
like the smoothest surface I had ever driven upon. There was
more light now that I was out of the canyon and as I crested
onto the main ridge I was presented with a deep red sun setting
below colorful clouds in an amber sky. This was a really beautiful
sunset and it came at just the right time. I let the beauty
of it all sink in and continued on |
through the mine fields for a few miles. It was slow going as the
sun set and the car-consuming potholes disappeared into the shadows.
Finally, as if it was a gift from God, the fork in the road appeared
where my adventurous side had taken over earlier in
the day. I cursed my adventurous side and turned onto the road I
should have taken. The pavement improved more as I descended towards
the lights of Santa Barbara. At 8:45 PM, tired, dehydrated and nearly
back to civilization, I came to a crossroads. Straight would take
me downhill to the freeway. Left was highway 192, a small twisty
back road which winds through the foothills. Which road would you
have taken?
See more photos from this adventure on
Cedric's photo page
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